Race & Performance Bikes

This category is for bikes where speed and efficiency are paramount. Geometries are typically aggressive and aerodynamic. Sizing is critical to maintain power output and control at high speeds.

Canyon Aeroad Sizing

For Aeroad CF SLX / CFR models:

For Aeroad CF SL 8 Disc model:

Canyon Ultimate Sizing

Canyon Speedmax Sizing

For Speedmax CF models:

For Speedmax CF SLX / CFR models:

Canyon Inflite Sizing

Canyon Lux Sizing

For Lux World Cup models:

For Lux Trail models:

Endurance & Adventure Bikes

Built for long days in the saddle, these bikes prioritize comfort and stability over pure speed. Geometries are more relaxed and upright, suitable for everything from smooth tarmac to rugged gravel roads.

Canyon Endurace Sizing

For Endurace AL / CF models (e.g., Endurace 6, CF 7):

For Endurace CF SL / CF SLX models (e.g., Endurace CF SL 8, CF SLX 9):

Canyon Grail Sizing

For Grail (Unisex) models:

For Grail WMN models:

Canyon Grizl Sizing

For Grizl (Unisex) models:

For Grizl WMN models:

Trail & Gravity MTB

From all-day trail bikes to downhill race rigs, these mountain bikes feature long, slack, and low geometry for maximum confidence and control when the terrain gets steep and technical.

Canyon Neuron Sizing

For Neuron (Unisex) models:

For Neuron WMN models:

Canyon Spectral Sizing

For Spectral 29 models:

For Spectral 27.5 models:

For Spectral 125 & Strive models:

Canyon Torque & Sender Sizing

For Torque/Sender Mullet & 27.5" models:

For Torque/Sender 29" models:

Sizing Frequently Asked Questions

My height is between two sizes. Which one should I pick?

This depends on your body proportions and riding style.

• Go for the smaller size if you have a shorter torso/arms or prefer a more nimble, agile feel. It's often easier to make a smaller bike feel bigger (with a longer stem/seatpost) than the reverse.
• Go for the larger size if you have a longer torso/arms or prefer a more stable, planted feel, especially at high speeds.

How do WMN (Women's) models differ in fit?

Canyon's WMN models are not just different colours. They often feature tailored geometry and components better suited to average female anatomy, which can include shorter reach, narrower handlebars, and women's-specific saddles. This provides a more comfortable and ergonomic fit out of the box for many female riders.

What's more important: height or inseam?

Both are crucial. Your overall height gives a general size recommendation, while your inseam (leg length) determines your standover clearance—the space between you and the bike's top tube. You should have at least 2-3 cm of clearance for safety. If you have long legs for your height, you might fit a larger frame, and vice-versa.

Should I worry about Reach and Stack?

For experienced riders, yes. Reach (the horizontal distance from the bottom bracket to the head tube) and Stack (the vertical distance) are more precise fit indicators than frame size. A longer reach creates a more stretched-out, aggressive position, while a higher stack provides a more upright, comfortable one. Comparing these numbers between bikes can give you a better idea of how a bike will actually feel.

Beyond the Charts: A Deeper Dive into Your Perfect Canyon Fit

While the sizing charts above are an excellent starting point, a truly perfect fit sometimes requires a deeper understanding of your own body and the nuances of bike geometry. This section will empower you with the knowledge to make a more informed decision, use Canyon's own tools effectively, and understand what to do if you fall between sizes.

How to Measure Yourself Accurately at Home

Garbage in, garbage out. Providing accurate measurements is the first step to getting a great recommendation. Grab a tape measure, a friend (if possible), and a hardcover book.

• Measuring Your Height: Stand with your back against a wall, shoes off, and feet together. Keep your legs straight and look directly forward. Place a hardcover book or a ruler flat on top of your head, ensuring it's level and flush with the wall. Make a small mark on the wall with a pencil. Measure from the floor to the mark. For best results, do this two or three times and take the average.
• Measuring Your Inseam (Inner Leg Length): This is the most crucial measurement for bike sizing. Stand with your back against the wall, shoes off, feet about 15-20cm (6-8 inches) apart, mimicking being on a bike. Take a large hardcover book and firmly pull it upwards into your crotch, simulating the pressure of a bike saddle. Ensure the book is level. Have a friend measure from the top of the book's spine to the floor. This measurement is often more important than height, as it dictates standover clearance and influences saddle height.
• Considering Your Ape Index: Your ape index is your arm span minus your height. If you have a positive ape index (your arms are longer than you are tall), you may be more comfortable on a larger size. If you have a negative ape index, a smaller size might be a better fit. This is a great tie-breaker if you're between sizes.

Demystifying Bike Geometry: Key Metrics Explained

Understanding a few key terms on a geometry chart can tell you more about a bike's fit and feel than the generic "S, M, L" size ever could. The two most important modern metrics are Stack and Reach.

• Reach: This is the horizontal distance from the center of the bottom bracket to the center of the head tube. It is a primary indicator of how long a bike will feel when you're standing on the pedals. A longer reach means a more stretched-out, often more aggressive or stable, riding position. A shorter reach provides a more upright, nimble feel. Modern mountain bikes are trending towards longer reach numbers for stability.
• Stack: This is the vertical distance from the center of the bottom bracket to the center of the head tube. It determines how high the front end and your handlebars will be. A higher stack leads to a more upright, relaxed, and comfortable riding position (common on Endurace models). A lower stack results in a more bent-over, aerodynamic position (as seen on the Aeroad).
• Effective Top Tube Length: This is the horizontal measurement from the head tube to the seat post. For a long time, this was the key metric for sizing, and it's still very relevant for determining how a bike feels when you're seated. It's closely related to reach but is also affected by the seat tube angle.
• Head Tube Angle: This is the angle of the head tube in relation to the ground. A "slack" angle (a lower number, e.g., 64°) slows down the steering, making the bike more stable at high speeds and on steep descents (found on Torque/Sender). A "steep" angle (a higher number, e.g., 73°) quickens the handling for a more responsive, agile feel (common on the Ultimate).

Using the Canyon Perfect Positioning System (PPS)

Beyond our general charts, Canyon offers its own online sizing tool, the Perfect Positioning System (PPS). We highly recommend using this tool before making your final decision. The PPS takes your height and inseam measurements, and sometimes additional data like torso and arm length, to run them through a sophisticated database compiled from thousands of real-world rider measurements. This allows the PPS to provide a highly accurate, personalized size recommendation for the specific Canyon model you're interested in. Always use your precise at-home measurements when inputting data into the PPS for the best results.

Discipline-Specific Sizing Nuances

How you ride matters. A competitive road racer will prioritize a different fit than a casual mountain biker.

• Road Racing (Aeroad vs. Ultimate): Sizing can be a matter of preference. Some riders prefer to "size down" and use a longer stem to achieve a lower, more aggressive, and aerodynamic position. This also creates a bike with sharper handling. Others prefer the recommended size for a more balanced fit. The Ultimate has a slightly higher stack than the Aeroad in a comparable size, making it a better choice for climbers and all-rounders.
• Gravel Riding (Grail vs. Grizl): Your choice here depends on your definition of gravel. The Grail has a more road-oriented geometry for speed on smoother dirt roads and tarmac. The Grizl has a longer wheelbase and a more relaxed geometry, making it incredibly stable when loaded with bikepacking bags or navigating chunky, technical terrain. If you plan on rugged adventures, the stability of the Grizl's geometry is key.
• Mountain Biking (Neuron to Sender): Modern MTB sizing is a hot topic. The "longer is better" trend focuses on increasing the reach for stability. Many experienced riders who are between sizes will choose to "size up" to get a longer reach, which provides more stability at speed and confidence on descents. However, sizing up can make the bike feel less playful and harder to maneuver in tight switchbacks. If you prefer a more poppy, agile bike for jumping and tight trails, sticking to the smaller of two size options might be preferable.

Fine-Tuning Your Fit After Purchase

Your bike's size is set by the frame, but the fit can be fine-tuned. Once your Canyon arrives, a few simple adjustments can dial in your comfort and performance perfectly.

• Saddle Height: This is the first and most important adjustment. A good starting point is to set the saddle so that when your heel is on the pedal at its lowest point, your leg is completely straight. When you move your foot to a normal pedaling position (ball of the foot on the pedal axle), you should have a slight, comfortable bend in your knee.
• Saddle Position (Fore/Aft): Sliding your saddle forward or backward on its rails changes your relationship to the pedals and handlebars. A common method is to sit on the bike with the cranks horizontal (3 and 9 o'clock) and use a plumb line from the front of your forward kneecap. It should hang directly over the pedal axle.
• Handlebar Adjustments: You can make small adjustments to your handlebar height by moving headset spacers from below the stem to above it (or vice-versa). On a road or gravel bike, rotating the handlebars up or down slightly can also change the feel of the hoods and drops.
• When to Get a Professional Bike Fit: If you're a serious competitor, have a history of injuries, or experience persistent discomfort (knee pain, back pain, numb hands) after riding, investing in a professional bike fit is invaluable. A fitter will analyze your body, flexibility, and riding style to optimize every aspect of your bike for you, potentially recommending changes like a different stem length, handlebar width, or crank arm length.